24.9.12

Time, is never time at all
you can never ever leave
without leaving a piece of youth

Smashing Pumpkins: Tonight, Tonight

It's shitty how quick one forgets. Impressions and experiences which should lead to world-changing actions, ever so often echo away in the grand hollow space of the average human brain in which all random impressions and experiences are doomed to fade out. (Read as: Been wasting time in bars too much lately)
This means I am officially back in Amsterdam,  aka "hipstertown". "Welcome back to hipstertown" a friend anti-enthusiastically greeted me last week. Today, my gear included: a racing bike, a designed fleece jacket and colourful shoes, and most importantly: a herschell backpack (which I've been wearing for six months but wtf everyone seems to have one all of sudden) in order to buy a casio watch, I realised the Moment was there: hipstertown hello, goodbye crappy lil surfertown. 

When you come back after a while, you find that some things have changed, others stayed the same (but you are older). Amsterdam is a bubble. But Taghazout, or any other place, is also a bubble. And once you're back in the bubble, you're back in the bubble. And you forget what the other bubble was like. The transitioning phase is just being in complete chaos. I'll try to, bit by bit write some remaining resonance down from the impressions Morocco made on me, insh'allah.

A week ago, I wanted to write something about traffic. It surprised me how ballsy I'd gotten on the bike in Amsterdam, and figured it was because I got used to surfing in a local's spot in Morocco where everyone's basically on their own. When you're not taking priority, it will never be your turn. Forget it. You wait forever. So at some points you just have to go. Even when there are two shortboarders with nasty pointy noses and knife-sharp glass fins on their boards who will not hold themselves back possibly going for the same wave. Wave traffic can be gnarly and on a busy day, a surfer or two exits the water with a nasty fincut. g n a r l y. And the road traffic too. Most people in Morocco are insane drivers. Add up to that the fact that taxis don't leave before they're full: two people on the passanger seat in the front, and four people on the backseats. Taxis are mercedes from the sixties, or fifties, but they're mostly quite OK and seem like undestructable cars. Mountaintaxis on the contrary, are old Ford vans. We sat on a plastic crate in the back, and had to manually keep the backdoor closed because it was only attached with two pieces of household rope to the rest of the vehicle. 

It's safe to say there is a 85% unpredictability factor on the road, including freerunning goats. You never know what's going to happen. Something or someone might just pop up out of nowhere. When you are overtaking a truck, someone else might want to try to overtake you at the same time. Roundabouts are like death traps. Even in traffic jams, people try to squeeze between two rows of cars through the middle of the road. Crazy bus drivers who overtake on a cliff corner. After sunset, risks increase a tenfold because even along the highways, there is hardly any light. I remember driving back from Marrakesh once during ramadan, and seeing a road accident every 50 meters. In the headlights of our car we saw heavy lorries with broken axis, which had run into family cars, failing engines, some accidents more severe than others. It was pretty scary. I looked at Jaouad, our driver. He looked straight ahead, motionless. We had sixteen people in the van, and they needed to be brought back safe. And ourselves too, if that was permitted. There was not much more to rely on than Jaouad's nerves and driving skills. Moroccan traffic is one big russian roulette.
Back in Amsterdam: nicely predictable traffic, and everything's quite orderly. You can trust on everybody respecting the basic rules. So you can easily take priority whenever you feel like it, run around like crazy, and race through town like a mofo. Transitioning between two bubbles, best of both worlds, yeahh!




 taghazout traffic on a very quiet day... one of the "reliable" mercedeses in the picture. photo by Richard Jüngschlager

 Taking priority in the water: me vs shortboarder

 It's moine!

 That's right dudes! BOOYA shortboarder #2  

OK that was absolutely not an epic wave at all, but still! 
(They are probably having the best swell of the year at this very moment)



6.7.12

Leashes

Since a few days I'm having a phantom-leash on my ankle. The feeling of being rocked back and forth in the waves even hours after surfing wasn't strange to me. But now also my leash is still attached to my foot, even though I'm dry clothed and sat on the couch.

A relationship with a leash is twofolded. At one hand it's a lifesaver, on the other hand, it can be unpredictably dangerous. The amount of times the leash has prevented my board slamming into a swimming kid's head weighs up exactly against the times it tangled around my legs as the wave was rolling me in, the hard wire pulling them together with force.

The phantom leash, I discovered, only appears after a day of heavy wipeouts. Aka failing to take the wave, and being smashed on the beach by it. During a wipeout, the surfer falls off the board, rotates a couple times through the wave ("as if in a washing machine"). The board naturally flies away, pulling on the leash, the foot, of the surfer. Onshore, pick up the board, go back in through the waves rolling in, paddle out, repeat.

The final third of my time in Morocco has taken off. Summer. I've started surfing more intensively now, and getting more and more anxious about it. I sort of need to go every day.  It's the only thing I'm still excited for, and why not, I've taken in everything else in Morocco. Work-wise, I've done it, sweat it, seen it, loved it. Culture-wise, I integrated in the village up to the point where I was being gossiped about. Now I'm ready to let it all go. I will have a big fat phantom leash once back in Holland, that's one thing for sure. Two months left.


29.5.12

SUP Taghazout!

  Today there are no waves in Taghazout
Surfers go fishing


 We go stand up paddling. Standing up, falling off
And again






DON'T MOVE!







19.5.12

B for Bananas

safi safisafisafisafi

this is youssef's 70's VW van

this is him

he uses the back of the van as a drive around shop

And this is mareille, the best roomie ever. there are only 2 seats in the van, i was literally being held by her (kip ik heb je!) so youssef swiped it off the road several times on the way back to taghazout to put his seatbelt on, me jumping in the back just before police controls

26.4.12

So we went to Tafraoute, a Berber village in the anti atlas. Beautiful, beautiful, beautiful! Zweeena! The rocks are crazy. The village is clean. There are CASH POINTS. It's not even a village when you compare it to Taghazout. Which is mildly dissapointing, but o.k. The people are calm, there are not that many tourists.
Before we went, we met up at Aftas for plan de campagne. Because, traveling by bus is cheap, but takes long (7 to 9 hours). How do we find people to join us? One of these nights, playing backgammon, pondering our trip to Tafraoute, a guy with long dreadlocks asked us if he could take the backgammon set from us. We said yeah sure and passed it on. Finally we decided to go just the two of us. We talked about it with many people, just as many people told us it was one of the highlights of Morocco. So we grew more and more enthusiastic and asked everyone for recommended places to stay. Abdullah said he has friends in Tafraoute, they would help us and they could rent us a nice appartment and so on. O.k, sounds good! All set, we thought and booked our tickets for a CTM bus from Agadir to Tafraoute. The day before departure, we met up again to ask Abdullah for his contact in Tafraoute. Turns out he didn't even know the guy's name, and didn't have his phone number. But he's the cousin of a silversmith who runs a shop there and you can rent bicycles with his father. And he speaks perfect Berber. Which is good to know. He drew us a little map of how to get there:



Alas, we went on our endeavor, armored with bus tickets and a hand made map of a village in the mountains.





After about 6 hours on the CTM bus, night falling and not being able to recognize ground floor from sky from mountains anymore, we decided it wasn't the moment to rely on Abdullah's instructions anymore. We had already shortly spoken to a Dutch woman (sic) who lives parttime in Tafraoute working as a volunteer English teacher for Berber women, and feeling very well at ease in Morocco. It seemed a good idea to ask her about a place to stay, and she took us to HOTEL TANGER. Without doubt one of the most charming, cheap and comfortable places I've ever stayed. Only 10 minutes after arrival in Tafraoute, we saw ourselves installed in a nice triple room with a terrace and a separate bathroom. Nice nice nice. Had some tea, took some nighttime pictures. Went to bed.




At around 5 o' clock in the morning there was an un-smooth transition from complete sleep into alarm-state-awake when the muezzin called ALLAH'AKBARRRRR SUL'ALLAH'AKBARRRR through his 3 megaphones around the mosque.





So Tafraoute is a very quiet village (except for prayer time announcements). We've seen few women, but some of them run argan oil shops (women cooperatives are known in Morocco for producing argan oil based cosmetics).

For the rest, PICTURRRES













Oh, zweeeena!!!
And I haven't even elaborated on visiting the old town of Tafraoute, houses of 500 years old pasted into the mountains, surprisingly fresh inside and completely beautiful. 

On the day we left, we decided to take a later bus, with the more moroccan (less western than CTM) "Sahara Tours". 10 dirhams cheaper, only stops as far as Inezgane (just before Agadir) tsja, and then we ran into two guys from Taghazout, the one with the long dreadlocks who we passed a backgammon game to when we were planning our trip in Aftas. What are the odds.